Sunday, May 22, 2011
Hung up on weather...
Monday, May 9, 2011
Digging for ramps...
“We are going to look for ramps,” my friend Helga said to me one early spring day. “What’s that?” I replied, never having heard the word before. “You’ll see…” was all she would say.
Armed with small shovels, carrying plastic bags, and wearing work gloves, we set off up the hill and into the woods behind her house in South Royalton. We hiked a mile or so till we reached a plateau. Suddenly Helga headed over to an area of bright green leaves growing on the ground in clumps and covering the floor of the woods. “Here they are!” she said triumphantly as if she were greeting old friends. She told me that she has been coming to this same spot on the property every spring for the past twelve years.
Taking a small shovel, she dug carefully around a clump of leaves working the roots out of the ground. Freeing them gently, she held up a bunch of leaves with small white bulbs at the root looking much like scallions or smaller version of leeks. That’s because ramps are related to this species, only they are a wild variety. Officially they are known as Allium tricoccum or wild leeks. I watched Helga bend down to dig up more and followed her lead till I got the gist of loosening the roots before pulling out the plant so that the bulb remains intact. Ramps give off a strong garlicky onion odor even while pulling them out of the ground. Bring them in the house and the odor gets can be quite powerful.
Digging up the ramps is the easy part. The work comes in cleaning them as they come out of the ground, like most root vegetables, heavily caked with dirt. It takes much rinsing and soaking and eventually removing the natural film around the bulb to get them clean enough to cook with. Once cleaned, you can chop them up to use in a variety of dishes. Helga chopped some up, put them in a frying pan with olive oil and seasonings, sautéed them, and served them with parmesan cheese over freshly made plain pasta. Delicious… because of their pungent flavor.
Learning to dig for ramps opened up a new world to me - a world of foods found in the wild. I am now aware that this is second nature to my European and Russian neighbors. Helga and Heidja, who both grew up in Germany, told me that this is what they did as children during the Depression and World War II when food was scarce. My Russian neighbors are avid mushroom pickers and seem to know just where to go to pick them and which ones are safe to eat. The ritual of going into the woods at certain times of spring and summer seems to be part of welcoming each new season.
I came home after my first ramp digging experience to discover that there were acres of ramps growing in the woods all over the mountain where I live. For years, each spring I had walked right by this new bright colored green growth in the woods and never had any idea what it was. Now, I am practicing incorporating digging for ramps into my ritual for the coming of spring to Vermont. I have been on the Internet to find ideas for recipes to use them in. There is something deeply gratifying about the freedom of going into the woods to bring home a plant that is delicious to eat. Deep down it feels like I have been in touch with some long dormant instinct I was meant to use while on this earth.
Today my kitchen smells of ramps because the ones I picked fresh today are drying on the counter. We’ll be enjoying Ramp Quiche for dinner tonight.
Mother's Day
Yesterday in her daily email to me, Mom related a story I had not heard before. She wrote: I was thinking about long ago on a Mother’s Day how Mary Blythe and I wanted to get something for our Mother...We had no money and hunted all over the house, under chair cushions and in drawers looking for pennies until we had some money. Mary Blythe said she had a wonderful idea of what to give Mother and was so excited. “Mother will just love this,” Mary Blythe said. She bought a big pink crepe paper rose to fasten on the round part of the telephone. You talked into this huge rose. Oh, how wonderful! What a perfect present. But the rose did not stay on the telephone for very long. Mary Blythe and I just couldn’t understand why the big paper rose was lost so soon and why Mother wasn’t hunting for it.
My mother is the most gracious person I know when it comes to receiving gifts. Perhaps she learned this because of, or in spite of, experiences with her own mother. Having a close relationship with her and being a mother myself, I don’t need a special day of the year to celebrate motherhood. I suspect my Mother feels the same way. However, I have to admit that I liked thinking about what I might send Mom for Mother’s Day this year. Knowing she wasn’t expecting a gift and would be happy with just a phone call, made me determined to surprise her with something that would please her. I had just been for a visit and replenished her wardrobe. I know I can no longer send her a favorite book because her eyes are not good. So I opted for a DVD movie for entertainment. She loved it and thanked me over and over again
I must admit I felt excited when the UPS driver came up the driveway Friday afternoon and delivered a large box with my name on it. Something I had not ordered. A surprise gift for Mother’s Day, for me? It felt like Christmas. I loved opening the card and reading the kind words my son wrote to me. The elegantly packed gift basket of teas and biscuits and a variety of specialty items to go with afternoon tea are just right to satisfy the Anglophile in me. My family knows that and especially my son.
I know Mother’s Day has become another one of those “Hallmark holidays” that fills the shops with greeting cards, your email inbox with advertisements for sending flowers, and boosts restaurant sales. I remind myself that this is the American way, part of our culture. The librarian in me had to research Mother’s Day on the Internet to learn that it’s been an American holiday since Woodrow Wilson’s presidency almost 100 years ago. Anna Jarvis wanted to honor her mother after her death and proposed the holiday in very specific terms. It was to be the second Sunday in May but to be called Mother’s Day. She was specific about the location of the apostrophe; it was to be singular possessive, for each family to honor their mother, not a plural possessive commemorating all mothers in the world. Reading further I learned that only ten years after Mother’s Day was established it became so commercialized that Anna Jarvis herself became a major opponent of her own holiday and fought the abuse of the holiday for the rest of her life. She critisized the practice of purchasing greeting cards, which she saw as a sign of being too lazy to write a personal letter.
I am glad to have marked another Mother’s Day in my life. This year I learned about the story of two little girls searching for pennies to buy my grandmother a gift. My son’s card is tucked away to reread and savor. Most of all I hope that next year I will have the same dilemma of what to get my Mom for Mother’s Day that will please her.